Members
Only

The Importance of Turf

FAQ's

Some commonly asked questions about lawns.

Is your lawn experiencing problems? Are weeds and insects winning the battle?
Let one of our qualified lawn or landscape specialists help you.
We will respond to your questions within two working days.

Q.  How do I tell if I have a lawn grub problem?

A.  Magpies and other insect eating birds pecking at the lawn to feed

on grubs and insects are a good indication that there may be a problem. Of course, seed eating birds such as doves and pigeons will not be an indicator.
It is the grub stage that causes most damage. They are voracious feeders and chew on the grass roots just below the surface of the soil.
Eventually the roots will have been severed to such an extent that the turf lifts away in clumps looking a bit like a doormat.


Q. I have a lot of green moss in my lawn. What can I do about it?

A. Moss on your lawn surface usually indicates poor soil drainage and possibly too much shade.  Your ALMA Lawn Care Operator can advise you on what is wanted to correct the problem.

Q. I continually have trouble with my lawn in shady areas. I try to grow grass there but it is always weak.

A. Unfortunately there are no easy answers to growing grass in shady areas. All grasses, including the weedy ones require a certain amount of sunlight each day.

Q. I get lots of tiny prickles in my feet when I walk on the lawn in summer. How can I fix this?

A. Bindii or Jo-jo (botanical name Soliva pterosperma ) is one of the lawn nasties. A winter growing annual, seed germinate in late autumn. The soft, finely branched leaves produce small yellow flowers in spring. These mature with warmer spring weather to form the troublesome burrs.
If there are only a few, they can be hand weeded, but chemical control is recommended. The most effective control is to prevent the seed germinating in autumn by using a pre-emergent weedicide. There are also products that selectively kill the bindii before the seedheads form. The best time to do this is from May to July. Put it on next year's calendar to contact your professional ALMA lawn care operator to arrange treatment.


Q. Clover is rampaging out of control in my lawn. Will scarifying fix it up?

A. While scarifying the lawn may overcome the problem for a while, it is not the best solution as it is incredibly labour intensive to remove the huge volumes of scarifyings.

Your lawn is probably infested with White Clover (botanical name Trifolium repens ). White clover has a pop-pom shaped white flower that gradually turns pinkish as it matures.

A similar weedy clover is Burr Medic (Medicago polymorpha ) that has small yellow flowers and forms those spiral burrs that stick to your socks.

Clover and medics grow particularly well in winter. While it may make the otherwise dormant and pale lawn look better, it is a good idea to weed them out, removing next season's seeds, and reducing competition for available nutrients and moisture with the desirable grasses.

The problem with these weedy legumes in lawns is that they shade the desirable turfgrasses, much like a beach umbrella, just at the time when the turfgrass is commencing its spring growth. For the turf to prosper, they need sunshine to be able to photosynthesize. No sun, hardly any growth. When the warmer weather arrives, the annual clovers die off; leaving a bare patch in the lawn that is susceptible to invasion by summer-growing weeds.

While scarifying the lawn may overcome the problem for a while, it is not the best solution as it is incredibly labour intensive to remove the huge volumes of scarifyings.
Mow the lawn hard to remove the unwanted clover. Start with the mower set high, then reduce the cutting height and mow at 90o. You may have to mow several times in the one day, until the desirable turfgrasses are just exposed.
When new clover leaves regrow, follow up with chemical treatment - there are many products available to rid a lawn of clover.
Clover and medics grow particularly well in winter. While it may make the otherwise dormant and pale lawn look better, it is a good idea to weed them out, removing next season's seeds, and reducing competition for available nutrients and moisture with the desirable grasses.

Q. Is fertiliser needed before I sow seed or lay turf sod?

A. Yes. For the best results rake in Blood & Bone at a rate of 200g per square metre and Complete Mineral Mixture at 100g per square metre. After raking the fertiliser into the top 2-3cm water well. As soon as the soil is dry enough to rake a second time the seed may be sown.

Q. What will kill weeds on my newly-sown lawn?

A. You don't need a weedkiller. Mowing the grass will rid majority of them. Just pull out any big ones.

Q. How often should I cut the lawn?

A. As often as possible (recommended: twice a week if you can manage it). Don't let it get really long and then scalp it. To really get that bowling green finish, you need to do as the greenkeepers do - mow daily!

Q. Is it really necessary to put fertiliser on a lawn? It's growing fast enough already.

A. As plants grow they remove nutrients from the soil. To ensure continued health of your lawn, these nutrients should be replaced. The minerals used by the lawn most of all are nitrogen and potassium. Next in importance are iron, calcium and magnesium; followed by manganese. There is usually enough phosphorus in the soil already, so that you don't need to add more.

Q. What is "slow release" nitrogen?

A. "Slow release" or "time release" nitrogen refers to a form of nitrogen which breaks down slowly from heat, water, or bacterial action remaining within the root zone for an extended period. Sulphur-coated urea, urea formaldehyde are types of "slow release" nitrogen.

Q. What do nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium do for the lawn?

A. Nitrogen is the element most responsible for deep green foliage and lush grass growth. Phosphorous encourages a strong root system. Potassium contributes to sturdy plant growth and disease resistance.

Q. How do I get rid of those thick-bladed grasses in my lawn?

A. Spot spraying can remove small clumps or patches of weedy grasses. However, if weedy grasses are throughout the lawn, renovation of entire area may be needed.

Q. How can I keep moss from growing in my lawn?

A. Moss growth is encouraged by a variety of soil and environment conditions. Area with high acidity, poor drainage, compacted soil, and low fertility are most susceptible to moss. Also areas constantly shaded by tall trees or buildings are susceptible. Vigorous grass growth is the key to moss control. Reduce soil acidity.

Q.  My lawn looks dry in spots, but I water it regularly. What is it?

A.  Check the spots for signs of insect feeding.White larvae found in the soil beneath these dry patches could be grubs feeding on the roots. If no insects are found, excessive thatch build-up can prevent water from reaching the soil.

Q. My lawn is overrun with crabgrass. What can I do?

A. Having a healthy, vigorous lawn is the first line of defence against this gardening menace. Long-term grass.

control depends upon the use of the right grass in the right place. You must also plant it at the proper time and provide adequate mowing, fertilisation, watering and correct disease and insect control.
In August, apply a crabgrass preventer. Timing is critical because this herbicide kills the crabgrass seedlings as they emerge from the soil in the Spring.
In late Spring, watch for seedlings that were not killed by the herbicide (it is hard to cover every square inch of lawn). Spray immediately with a liquid crabgrass killer. Mature crabgrass is very hard to kill, and repeat applications may be necessary. Spraying when the seedling leaves are about one inch long is the most effective.
You can't control crabgrass by regular mowing. The plant is too smart for you and will send out seed stalks that do not grow higher than the grass leaves. There can be hundreds of seeds on one stalk, and they will be blown around by the wind and carried on your shoes.

Q. I have a lot of Crab Grass (this is what the nursery called it, it looks similar to Buffalo but is furrier looking and grows a stalk straight up with seeds on it) amongst our Buffalo and it is quickly taking over. I have had advice from our local nursery to little effect. Any hints????

A. A preemergent weedkiller called Ronstar is the most effective control, but it must be applied before the crabgrass begins to germinate in early spring.

Q. In the spring I've noticed a lot of large brown areas in my lawn. I water it well with our sprinkler system but the dead areas just seem to be getting bigger. What am I doing wrong?

A. It sounds like "brown patch" which is a lawn fungus that develops in the spring and early summer when there are warm nights and plenty of moisture. This combination is a perfect scenario for fungus to grow and spread. To remedy the situation, turn off the sprinklers until the rains subside. Apply a systemic fungicide to prevent a future outbreak. Also, mowing the lawn higher with a sharp blade and removing clippings can help with this situation.

Q. When is the best time to aerate my lawn?

A. Any time of year is a good time to aerate, but late summer and early autumn are the best times. Your grass is working hard during this time to develop a stronger root system and aeration aids in that process. If you aerate during this season you allow pockets of air to transmit water and nutrients to the root system. You want to encourage growth of the root system during autumn and early winter months. This will help ensure a thick, green, healthy turf in the spring.

Q. I have a low area in my lawn that stays soggy for a long time after a heavy rain. The grass just doesn't seem to do very well there. Any suggestions?

A. Poor drainage and landscape design can be a detriment to a great looking lawn. The saturated turf actually starves the roots of oxygen and aids in the development of fungus. If the problem isn't too bad, you could try aerating that area several times during the year to help the water drain into the soil better. If the problem is more serious, more drastic measures may be required. Consider having that area filled with additional topsoil or have the whole garden regraded for better runoff. Drainage pipes can also be installed to help the water drain to a lower areA. 

Q. When is the best time to seed my lawn?

A. We recommend seeding tall fescue lawns only in autumn. The temperatures and weather are more stable, and university research proves that you can receive as much as 4 times more germination response from your seed. Warm days and cool nights with soil temperatures around 15oC to 20oC are optimum temperatures for seeding germination. Occasionally an emergency arises where spring seeding is required. Bare spots or new lawns can be seeded in the spring with proper planning. Warm weather grasses can be seeded in the spring successfully.

Q. How do I know if my garden needs lime? How much should I apply?

A. A soil test is the only way to determine exactly how much lime to apply to your lawn. Also, important is the correct type of lime to apply. There are two types to consider dolomitic, and non-dolomitic. A soil test specifically designed for lawn soils can specify which kind to use.

Q. Is there a way to keep the weeds out of my flowerbeds?

A. Proper installation of soil and mulching materials can minimise the number of weeds in a flowerbed. Quality mulches, along with pre-emergent weed control, and occasional post-emergent weed control can keep a flowerbed clean of weeds.

Q. What does it mean when a product is called a "pre-emergent"?

A. A pre-emergent is a weed control product that actually "blocks" the growth process of a particular type of weed. As the weed grows through the soil, it comes into contact with the pre-emergent barrier and is controlled.

Q. Why does my lawn need 5 applications of fertiliser per year? Are they all necessary?

A. Regular attention to your lawn's needs are an important part of any lawn care program. Our program is designed to provide your lawn with carefully balanced feedings at specific times during the year to avoid a feast or famine situation. Proper timing of fertiliser and weed control applications is crucial for a healthy lawn.

Q. Why do you use a granular fertiliser sometimes and a liquid spray other times?

A. We believe that granular fertiliser products are technologically superior to liquid products. However, post-emergent weed control products are only effectively applied in a liquid form. When we visit your lawn, we decide which is the most appropriate method of treatment.

Q. Is it better to seed or use instant sod to put in a lawn for a new house? What kind of soil should I ask my builder to bring in?

A. Like most projects, the fundamentals make or break the job. The proper soil can help your lawn perform better and help cope with the stresses we experience during our weather extremes. Ideally, a perfect mix of sand, silt, and clay will not only drain well, it will also hold nutrients in the soil. Most suburban soils have a decent mix of sand, silt, and clay, however during the construction phase of a home the topsoil is removed by the builder. This leaves the owner with a heavy top layer of clay that makes for a poor soil to grow plants in. Any soil brought in must be thoroughly mixed with the subsoil by rotary hoeing, otherwise layering of the different soil types almost guarantees failure in the long term.

Q. I want a nice green lawn but I am very concerned about the environment. Are there ways to have both? Are there products and services that you offer that are "environmentally friendly"?
A. We believe a thick, healthy lawn is the best defence against weeds and insects. By promoting proper seeding, watering, and maintenance practices, we believe that there is a lessened need for lawn chemicals. We practice a pest control strategy called "IPM" (Integrated Pest Management) which calls for intelligent, judicious use of pesticides.

Q. How do I choose a lawn care service? Are there governmental agencies that license this industry?
A. As with most "professions" our industry is becoming more regulated every day. We attend conferences and seminars that pertain to this ever changing industry. Our goal is to provide our customers with the newest and most advanced products and techniques that are available. These factors make the difference between a professional lawn care company, like ALMA, and the "man who cuts the grass".

Q. What kinds of things can I do to help my lawn look better and be healthier?
A. It is always important to realise that the success of anyone's lawn depends on a team working together. Keeping the lawn mowed regularly at an optimum height for that particular grass species is one thing. Making sure the lawn gets enough water during the hot, dry summertime is another. Be sure you have proper drainage throughout the garden. Keep the lawn clear of debris such as heavy leaf cover or pine needles. Seed, aerate, dethatch and lime when necessary. Keep heavy traffic (children, pets, cars) off the lawn. Have a soil test done to determine the correct pH for your lawn. Even the simple act of being observant of the condition of your lawn can be very important. Keep an eye out for little problems so that they can be taken care of before they become big problems. And as usual, don't hesitate to call us if you see anything unusual in the lawn.

Q. What is thatch and what is the best way to treat it?

A. Thatch in turf is a layer of dead and living shoots, stems and roots that develops on the surface of a root zone below the green tops. Decomposing thatch that becomes mixed with soil particles is called "mat".

Up to 6 mm of mat and thatch is usually considered beneficial to many types of turf because it

gives turf some resilience;
increases wear tolerance;
cushions the underlying soil against compaction;
acts as a mulch in reducing evaporation of water from the soil;
reduces the possibility of weed seeds germinating.

Moderate to heavy thatching is detrimental to turf because :

Thatch can reduce infiltration of water by becoming water repellent or by being compressed into a dense layer.
Dry patches can develop.
Heavy thatch reduces the tolerance of turf grasses to heat damage and cold.
Scalping can readily occur.
Thatch can harbour disease-causing pathogens.
Dollar spot, blight, and leaf spot are associated with heavy thatch.
Overseeding is difficult.
On warm sunny days, phytotoxic substances can be produced from decaying thatch.
Thatch layers can inactivate pesticides, decreasing their effectiveness

It is also important not to apply too much fertiliser in summer, in order to avoid growing huge amounts of leafy material which builds up the thatch layer.
It is important to undertake regular thatch control measures to prevent disease developing. The thick layers of thatch in many lawns prevent the rapid movement of irrigation water into the soil.
In extreme cases a layer of moist undecomposed grass material has been found separate from, and above the soil surface, with root development in this thatch layer, with daily irrigation keeping it in a constantly moist condition, ideal for fungal development. There may be little root development and water movement into the underlying soil. Thatch control is achieved by frequent mowing at a low height and regular dethatching using a vertimower or scarifier.
The ALMA Help Line 8293 4338 can advise of a Lawn Care operator near you.

Q. How often should I water my lawn ?

A. a good soaking of water every few days is more useful than frequent light sprinkling. Avoid watering late in the day; leaves remain wet for hours during the night, increasing the possibility of germination of fungal spores.
One to two waterings per week totalling 25mm are best. Frequent light waterings create shallow root systems which cannot sustain the plants during hot weather.
To find out how long to water, place 2 or 3 jam tins under the sprinkler or irrigation sprays. Determine the time it takes to put 25mm of water in each tin and from then on operate the sprinklers for that length of time for each watering.

Q. How often should I fertilise my lawn ?

A. Most lawns will have an acceptable appearance with annual applications of nitrogen at a rate of 6-20 g/m2 with 12-20 g/m2 most commonly needed. Preferably, this should be spread over 5-7 applications through the active growing season. Feasts, often to the point of burning, followed by long periods of famine should be avoided.

Q. How do I know when I've got lawn beetle ?

A. Bird activity on a lawn provides a really useful indicator that beetles may be present. Magpies plunge their beak deeply into the soil to reach the beetle larvae. Blackbirds and starlings use their feet to scratch away the turf, which pulls away readily, and find the grubs.
African black beetle spends most of its life under the soil surface. They chew stems just below ground level, leaving a frayed edge. Adults become sexually active in spring, and eggs are laid in areas of soft soil. The mating and egg-laying period extends over three months, which is why both larvae and adults can be found in the soil at the same time. Most damage to lawns is caused by the last larval stage, white curl grubs about 25mm long. The grubs are usually active from September to January. They pupate in the soil and emerge as adults from mid-January to late-February. These adults feed until the weather gets cold, when they burrow into the soil and become semi-dormant.

Q. How often should I mow my lawn ?

A. How long between mowing depends on the rate of growth, so that only one third of the grass is removed. This also depends on the kind of grass and its growth habit.
Bowling greens are cut daily !!! during the summer growing season, to encourage a prostrate habit, with many lateral shoots.
So, ideally some lawns need to be cut weekly during their active growing period, more often if the owner goes berserk with watering and fertilising, but generally, mowing every 7 to14 days is a reasonable compromise. As the grass lapses into winter dormancy, so the interval between cuts can be extended, but still apply the one third off criteriA. 
If the grass is too long at the next cut, and you remove more than a third, the amount of green foliage that photosynthesises plant food is severely reduced. During winter with fewer sunlight hours anyway, the plant is unable to cope, and the turf suffers.

If you cut so low that all the green growth is removed, the lawn has an overall yellow appearance and is dramatically stressed, finding it difficult to cope with low overnight ground temperatures. The grass in its weakened state is also susceptible to attack by various diseases.
If you set the mowing height high to compensate for less than optimal mowing frequency, then spongy or thatching of the turf is likely, which will require later scarifying, an additional expense.

How long between mowing also depends on the kind of grass. Different grasses should be cut at different heights. Lawn care should not be equated to rotary mowing of a green patch as low and as infrequently as possible. Together with excessive wear on the mower, this is the most damaging maintenance program possible.

Bent (Agrostis sp)	15mm
Buffalo (Stenotaphrum sp)	20-40mm
Clover (Trifolium sp)	25mm
Couch (Cynodon sp)	15mm
Kentucky blue (Poa pratensis)	30-40mm
Kikuyu (Pennisetum sp)	20mm at least weekly
Rye (Lolium perenne)	30-40mm
Santa Ana	20mm
Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea)	50mm

Q. When I water my garden the water just runs off. Why ? How do I fix the problem ?

A. 

Q. When is the best time to prune shrubs ?

A. 

Q. My kikuyu lawn is yellow in patches . Why ?

A. 

Q. How can I eradicate onion weed in my garden ?

A. 

Q. When is the best time to spray for codling moth ?

A. 

Q. The leaves of my citrus tree are yellow .Why ?

A. 

Q. I have a large dead spot in my lawn shaped like a doughnut. What is it ?

A. 

Q. My daffodils didn't produce many flowers this year do you know why ?

A. Daffodils that fail to flower are usually due to a lack of water the previous season. After flowering, the bulb needs to develop an adequate nutrient reserve to promote flowering the following year. This is obtained from the green leafy growth which needs to be stimulated by Tender Loving Careafter floweringwith sufficient water and fertilising to ensure the bulbs are plump and juicy to flower in the next season.

Q. When should I spray fruit trees for leaf curl ?

A. 

Q. How do I remove moss from my lawn ?

A. Moss is usually due to three factors. (1) poor drainage - either the soil is compacted, poorly constructed, or clay-rich and soggy; and (2) the soil pH is too high. Most turf grasses require soil pH to be between 5.5 an 6.5, slightly on the acid side of neutral. (3) the mossy area is heavily shaded.
Iron sulphate gives good control of moss and algae and will lower soil pH. Moss will quickly return unless poor soil drainage and overwatering are not remedied. Sow shade tolerant turf grasses such as Poa trivialis and creeping red fescue. Mow the grass a little higher to increase turf density and prevent it from thinning out and susceptible to weed and moss invasion. A common feature of mossy lawns is an accumulation of thatch which chokes the turf grass. This will need to be raked out or scarified. Another reason for mossy lawns is underfeeding. Apply a high nitrogen fertiliser together with iron sulphate.

Q. How do I treat black spot on my rose bushes ?

A. Black spot is a fungus that causes circular spots about 12mm across on the leaves that turn yellow and fall prematurely. If the rose is continually defoliated it will weaken and die. The problem is acute in humid weather.

Avoid overhead watering. Control by regular spraying at 8-10 day intervals with mancozeb, triforene, zineb or copper oxychloride when the weather becomes warm and humid. Thoroughly drench each plant as fungal spores can survive in the mulch around the plant. Read the directions on the product label before using any fungicide.
Fungal diseases occur during high humidity around the bush. This can be caused by growing smaller annuals underneath rose bushes, by overhead watering late in the day, or roses grown in shady situations.


Q. When is the best time to prune roses ?

A. I find the ideal time to prune roses is when buds halfway up the most vigorous cane begin to swell at the node, just before it commences to make leafy growth. The newly emerging bud has a distinct, glossy appearance. Buds near the tip if the cane will be 5 or 6mm long.
Late July is about right on the Adelaide plains. In cooler districts, pruning should be a couple of weeks later, but the criteria is bud swell as the rose emerges from dormancy.
Pruning earlier than this tends to force the shrub into new growth, which can be damaged by frost, evidenced as blackening of new leaf margins which are quite flaccid. Early pruning also leaves new growth susceptible to attack by aphids and mites that persist through warmer spells in winter. Pruning too late will waste energy the plant has put into developing new leaves and buds.

Q. When is the best time to prune fruit trees ?

A. 

Q. What is an endophyte?

A. An endophyte is a type of fungus that has a mutually beneficial association with certain species of grasses. They derive their food as well as protection from living between the cells of the turfgrass plant. They pose no harm to and do not produce any negative side effects to the host plant. Toxins produced by the fungus which are harmful to surface-feeding insects are released into the leaves of the turfgrass plant; thereby producing a natural insecticide. This "insecticide" then makes the host plant a non-appealing source of food. In many instances, not only are the insects repelled from feeding, but insect mortality may occur. Insects affected by these natural insecticides include chinch bugs, sod webworms and bluegrass billbugs. The fungi which confer insect resistance to our cool season turfgrasses are from the genera Acremonium.
There are different species of endophytes which are specific to the various turfgrass species.

 

76 Winston Avenue Melrose Park South Australia 5039 Phone 08 8293 4338     Home   E-mail   Members Services   Questions and Answers   Find a Contractor