The Importance of Turf |
|
 |
 |
|
|
FAQ's
Some commonly asked questions about lawns.
Is your lawn experiencing problems? Are weeds and insects winning the
battle?
Let one of our qualified lawn or landscape specialists help you.
We will respond to your questions within two working days.
Q. How do I tell if I have a lawn
grub problem?
A. Magpies and other insect eating
birds pecking at the lawn to feed
|
|
|
 |
on grubs and insects are a
good indication that there may be a problem. Of course, seed eating
birds such as doves and pigeons will not be an indicator.
It is the grub stage that causes most damage. They are vociferous feeders
and chew on the grass roots just below the surface of the soil.
Eventually the roots will have been severed to such an extent that the
turf lifts away in clumps looking a bit like a doormat.
Q. I have a lot of green moss in my lawn.
What can I do about it?
A. Moss on
your lawn surface usually indicates poor soil drainage and possibly
too much shade. Your ALMA Lawn Care Operator
can advise you
on what is wanted to correct the problem.
Q. I
continually have trouble with my lawn in shady areas. I try to grow
grass there but it is always weak.
A. Unfortunately there are
no easy answers to growing grass in shady areas. All grasses, including
the weedy ones require a certain amount of sunlight each day.
Q. I get lots of
tiny prickles in my feet when I walk on the lawn in summer. How can
I fix this?
|
|
|
 |
A. Bindii or Jo-jo (botanical
name Soliva pterosperma ) is one of the lawn nasties. A winter growing
annual, seed germinate in late autumn. The soft, finely branched leaves
produce small yellow flowers in spring. These mature with warmer spring
weather to form the troublesome burrs.
If there are only a few, they can be hand weeded, but chemical control
is recommended. The most effective control is to prevent the seed germinating
in autumn by using a pre-emergent weedicide. There are also products
that selectively kill the bindii before the seedheads form. The best
time to do this is from May to July. Put it on next year's calendar
to contact your professional ALMA lawn care operator
to arrange treatment.
Q. Clover is
rampaging out of control in my lawn. Will scarifying fix it
up?
A. While
scarifying the lawn may overcome the problem for a while, it is not
the best solution as it is incredibly labour intensive to remove the
huge volumes of scarifyings.
|
|
|
 |
Your lawn is probably infested with White
Clover (botanical name Trifolium repens ). White clover has a
pop-pom shaped white flower that gradually turns pinkish as it matures.
A similar weedy clover is Burr Medic
(Medicago polymorpha )
that has small yellow flowers and
forms those spiral burrs that stick to your socks.
Clover and medics grow particularly well in winter. While it
may make the otherwise dormant and pale lawn look better, it is a
good idea to weed them out, removing next season's seeds, and
reducing competition for available nutrients and moisture with the
desirable grasses.
The problem with these
weedy legumes in lawns is that they shade the desirable turfgrasses,
much like a beach umbrella, just at the time when the turfgrass is commencing
its spring growth. For the turf to prosper, they need sunshine to be
able to photosynthesize. No sun, hardly any growth. When the warmer
weather arrives, the annual clovers die off; leaving a bare patch in
the lawn that is susceptible to invasion by summer-growing weeds.
While scarifying the lawn may overcome the problem for a while, it is
not the best solution as it is incredibly labour intensive to remove
the huge volumes of scarifyings.
Mow the lawn hard to remove the unwanted clover. Start with the mower
set high, then reduce the cutting height and mow at 90o. You may have
to mow several times in the one day, until the desirable turfgrasses
are just exposed.
When new clover leaves regrow, follow up with chemical treatment - there
are many products available to rid a lawn of clover.
Clover and medics grow particularly well in winter. While it may make
the otherwise dormant and pale lawn look better, it is a good idea to
weed them out, removing next season's seeds, and reducing competition
for available nutrients and moisture with the desirable grasses.
Q. Is fertiliser
needed before I sow seed or lay turf sod?
A. Yes. For the
best results rake in Blood & Bone at a rate of 200g per square
metre and Complete Mineral Mixture at 100g per square metre. After
raking the fertiliser into the top 2-3cm water well. As soon as the
soil is dry enough to rake a second time the seed may be sown.
Q. What will kill weeds on my
newly-sown lawn?
A. You don't need a weedkiller.
Mowing the grass will rid majority of them. Just pull out any big ones.
Q. How often should I cut the
lawn?
A. As often as possible (recommended:
twice a week if you can manage it). Don't let it get really long and
then scalp it. To really get that bowling green finish, you need to
do as the greenkeepers do - mow daily!
Q. Is it really necessary to put
fertiliser on a lawn? It's growing fast enough already.
A. As plants grow they remove nutrients
from the soil. To ensure continued health of your lawn, these nutrients
should be replaced. The minerals used by the lawn most of all are nitrogen
and potassium. Next in importance are iron, calcium and magnesium; followed
by manganese. There is usually enough phosphorus in the soil already,
so that you don't need to add more.
Q. What is "slow release"
nitrogen?
A. "Slow release" or "time release"
nitrogen refers to a form of nitrogen which breaks down slowly from
heat, water, or bacterial action remaining within the root zone for
an extended period. Sulphur-coated urea, urea formaldehyde are types
of "slow release" nitrogen.
Q. What do nitrogen, phosphorous and
potassium do for the lawn?
A. Nitrogen is the element
most responsible for deep green foliage and lush grass growth. Phosphorous
encourages a strong root system. Potassium contributes to sturdy plant
growth and disease resistance.
Q. How do I get rid of those
thick-bladed grasses in my lawn?
A. Spot spraying can remove small
clumps or patches of weedy grasses. However, if weedy grasses are throughout
the lawn, renovation of entire area may be needed.
Q. How can I keep moss from growing in
my lawn?
A. Moss
growth is encouraged by a variety of soil and environment
conditions. Area with high acidity, poor drainage, compacted soil,
and low fertility are most susceptible to moss. Also areas
constantly shaded by tall trees or buildings are susceptible.
Vigorous grass growth is the key to moss control. Reduce soil
acidity.
Q. My lawn looks dry in spots, but
I water it regularly. What is it?
A. Check the spots for
signs of insect feeding.White larvae found in the soil beneath these
dry patches could be grubs feeding on the roots. If no insects are
found, excessive thatch build-up can prevent water from reaching the
soil.
Q. My lawn is overrun with crabgrass.
What can I do?
A. Having a
healthy, vigorous lawn is the first line of defence against this
gardening menace. Long-term grass.
control depends upon the use of the right grass in the right place.
You must also plant it at the proper time and provide adequate mowing,
fertilisation, watering and correct disease and insect control.
In August, apply a crabgrass preventer. Timing is critical because this
herbicide kills the crabgrass seedlings as they emerge from the soil in the Spring.
In late Spring, watch for seedlings that were not killed by the herbicide (it is hard to cover every square inch of lawn). Spray immediately with
a liquid crabgrass killer. Mature crabgrass is very hard to kill, and
repeat applications may be necessary. Spraying when the seedling leaves
are about one inch long is the most effective.
You can't control crabgrass by regular mowing.
The plant is too smart for you and will send out seed stalks that do
not grow higher than the grass leaves. There can be hundreds of
seeds on one stalk, and they will be blown around by the wind and
carried on your shoes.
| |
|
|
 |
Q. I have a lot of Crab
Grass (this is what the nursery called it, it looks similar to
Buffalo but is furrier looking and grows a stalk straight up with
seeds on it) amongst our Buffalo and it is quickly taking over. I
have had advice from our local nursery to little effect. Any
hints????
A. A preemergent weedkiller called Ronstar is the most
effective control, but it must be applied before the crabgrass
begins to germinate in early spring.
Q. In the spring I've noticed a lot of
large brown areas in my lawn. I water it well with our sprinkler
system but the dead areas just seem to be getting bigger. What am I
doing wrong?
A. It sounds like "brown patch"
which is a lawn fungus that develops in the spring and early summer
when there are warm nights and plenty of moisture. This combination
is a perfect scenario for fungus to grow and spread. To remedy the situation,
turn off the sprinklers until the rains subside. Apply a systemic fungicide
to prevent a future outbreak. Also, mowing the lawn higher with a sharp
blade and removing clippings can help with this situation.
Q. When is the best time to aerate my
lawn?
A. Any time of year is a good time
to aerate, but late summer and early autumn are the best times. Your
grass is working hard during this time to develop a stronger root system
and aeration aids in that process. If you aerate during this season
you allow pockets of air to transmit water and nutrients to the root
system. You want to encourage growth of the root system during autumn
and early winter months. This will help ensure a thick, green, healthy
turf in the spring.
Q. I have a low area in my lawn that
stays soggy for a long time after a heavy rain. The grass just
doesn't seem to do very well there. Any suggestions?
A. Poor drainage and landscape design
can be a detriment to a great looking lawn. The saturated turf actually
starves the roots of oxygen and aids in the development of fungus. If
the problem isn't too bad, you could try aerating that area several
times during the year to help the water drain into the soil better.
If the problem is more serious, more drastic measures may be required.
Consider having that area filled with additional topsoil or have the
whole garden regraded for better runoff. Drainage pipes can also be
installed to help the water drain to a lower areA.
Q. When is the best time to seed my
lawn?
A. We recommend seeding tall fescue
lawns only in autumn. The temperatures and weather are more stable,
and university research proves that you can receive as much as 4 times
more germination response from your seed. Warm days and cool nights
with soil temperatures around 15oC to 20oC are optimum temperatures
for seeding germination. Occasionally an emergency arises where spring
seeding is required. Bare spots or new lawns can be seeded in the spring
with proper planning. Warm weather grasses can be seeded in the spring
successfully.
Q. How do I know if my garden needs
lime? How much should I apply?
A. A soil test is the only way to
determine exactly how much lime to apply to your lawn. Also, important
is the correct type of lime to apply. There are two types to consider
dolomitic, and non-dolomitic. A soil test specifically designed for
lawn soils can specify which kind to use.
Q. Is there a way to keep the weeds out
of my flowerbeds?
A. Proper installation of soil and
mulching materials can minimise the number of weeds in a flowerbed.
Quality mulches, along with pre-emergent weed control, and occasional
post-emergent weed control can keep a flowerbed clean of weeds.
Q. What does it mean when a product is
called a "pre-emergent"?
A. A pre-emergent is a weed control
product that actually "blocks" the growth process of a particular type
of weed. As the weed grows through the soil, it comes into contact with
the pre-emergent barrier and is controlled.
Q. Why does my lawn need 5 applications
of fertiliser per year? Are they all necessary?
A. Regular attention to your lawn's
needs are an important part of any lawn care program. Our program is
designed to provide your lawn with carefully balanced feedings at specific
times during the year to avoid a feast or famine situation. Proper timing
of fertiliser and weed control applications is crucial for a healthy
lawn.
Q. Why do you use a granular fertiliser
sometimes and a liquid spray other times?
A. We believe that granular fertiliser
products are technologically superior to liquid products. However, post-emergent
weed control products are only effectively applied in a liquid form.
When we visit your lawn, we decide which is the most appropriate method
of treatment.
Q. Is it better to seed or use instant
sod to put in a lawn for a new house? What kind of soil should I ask
my builder to bring in?
A. Like most projects, the fundamentals
make or break the job. The proper soil can help your lawn perform better
and help cope with the stresses we experience during our weather extremes.
Ideally, a perfect mix of sand, silt, and clay will not only drain well,
it will also hold nutrients in the soil. Most suburban soils have a
decent mix of sand, silt, and clay, however during the construction
phase of a home the topsoil is removed by the builder. This leaves the
owner with a heavy top layer of clay that makes for a poor soil to grow
plants in. Any soil brought in must be thoroughly mixed with the subsoil
by rotary hoeing, otherwise layering of the different soil types almost
guarantees failure in the long term.
Q. I want a nice green lawn but
I am very concerned about the environment. Are there ways to have both?
Are there products and services that you offer that are "environmentally friendly"?
A. We believe a thick, healthy lawn
is the best defence against weeds and insects. By promoting proper seeding,
watering, and maintenance practices, we believe that there is a lessened
need for lawn chemicals. We practice a pest control strategy called
"IPM" (Integrated Pest Management) which calls for intelligent, judicious
use of pesticides.
Q. How do I choose a lawn
care service? Are there governmental agencies that license this industry?
A. As with most "professions" our
industry is becoming more regulated every day. We attend conferences
and seminars that pertain to this ever changing industry. Our goal is
to provide our customers with the newest and most advanced products
and techniques that are available. These factors make the difference
between a professional lawn care company, like ALMA, and the "man who cuts the grass".
Q. What kinds of things can I do
to help my lawn look better and be healthier?
A. It is always important to realise
that the success of anyone's lawn depends on a team working together.
Keeping the lawn mowed regularly at an optimum height for that particular
grass species is one thing. Making sure the lawn gets enough water during
the hot, dry summertime is another. Be sure you have proper drainage
throughout the garden. Keep the lawn clear of debris such as heavy leaf
cover or pine needles. Seed, aerate, dethatch and lime when necessary.
Keep heavy traffic (children, pets, cars) off the lawn. Have a soil
test done to determine the correct pH for your lawn. Even the simple
act of being observant of the condition of your lawn can be very important.
Keep an eye out for little problems so that they can be taken care of
before they become big problems. And as usual, don't hesitate to call
us if you see anything unusual in the lawn.
Q. What is thatch and what is the best way to treat it?
A. Thatch in turf is a layer of
dead and living shoots, stems and roots that develops on the surface
of a root zone below the green tops. Decomposing thatch that becomes
mixed with soil particles is called "mat".
Up to 6 mm
of mat and thatch is usually considered beneficial to many types of
turf because it
gives turf some resilience;
increases wear tolerance;
cushions the underlying soil against compaction;
acts as a mulch in reducing evaporation of water from the soil;
reduces
the possibility of weed seeds germinating.
Moderate to heavy thatching is detrimental to
turf because :
Thatch can reduce infiltration of water by becoming water repellent
or by being compressed into a dense layer.
Dry patches can develop.
Heavy thatch reduces the tolerance of turf grasses to heat damage
and cold.
Scalping can readily occur.
Thatch can harbour disease-causing pathogens.
Dollar spot, blight, and leaf spot are associated with heavy thatch.
Overseeding is difficult.
On warm sunny days, phytotoxic substances can be produced from decaying
thatch.
Thatch
layers can inactivate pesticides, decreasing their
effectiveness
It is also important not to apply too much fertiliser in summer, in
order to avoid growing huge amounts of leafy material which builds up
the thatch layer.
It is important to undertake regular thatch control measures to prevent
disease developing. The thick layers of thatch in many lawns prevent
the rapid movement of irrigation water into the soil.
In extreme cases a layer of moist undecomposed grass material has been
found separate from, and above the soil surface, with root development
in this thatch layer, with daily irrigation keeping it in a constantly
moist condition, ideal for fungal development. There may be little root
development and water movement into the underlying soil. Thatch control
is achieved by frequent mowing at a low height and regular dethatching
using a vertimower or scarifier.
The ALMA Help Line 8293 4338 can advise of a Lawn
Care operator
near you.
Q. How often should I water my lawn
?
A. a good soaking of water every
few days is more useful than frequent light sprinkling. Avoid watering
late in the day; leaves remain wet for hours during the night, increasing
the possibility of germination of fungal spores.
One to two waterings per week totalling 25mm are best. Frequent light
waterings create shallow root systems which cannot sustain the plants
during hot weather.
To find out how long to water, place 2 or 3 jam tins under the sprinkler
or irrigation sprays. Determine the time it takes to put 25mm of water
in each tin and from then on operate the sprinklers for that length
of time for each watering.
Q. How often should I fertilise my lawn
?
A. Most lawns will have an acceptable
appearance with annual applications of nitrogen at a rate of 6-20 g/m2
with 12-20 g/m2 most commonly needed. Preferably, this should be spread
over 5-7 applications through the active growing season. Feasts, often
to the point of burning, followed by long periods of famine should be
avoided.
Q. How do I know when I've got
lawn beetle ?
|
|
|
 |
A. Bird activity on a lawn provides
a really useful indicator that beetles may be present. Magpies plunge
their beak deeply into the soil to reach the beetle larvae. Blackbirds
and starlings use their feet to scratch away the turf, which pulls away
readily, and find the grubs.
African black beetle spends most of its life under the soil surface.
They chew stems just below ground level, leaving a frayed edge. Adults
become sexually active in spring, and eggs are laid in areas of soft
soil. The mating and egg-laying period extends over three months, which
is why both larvae and adults can be found in the soil at the same time.
Most damage to lawns is caused by the last larval stage, white curl
grubs about 25mm long. The grubs are usually active from September to
January. They pupate in the soil and emerge as adults from mid-January
to late-February. These adults feed until the weather gets cold, when
they burrow into the soil and become semi-dormant.
Q. How often should I mow my lawn
?
A. How long between mowing depends
on the rate of growth, so that only one third of the grass is removed.
This also depends on the kind of grass and its growth habit.
Bowling greens are cut daily !!! during the summer growing season, to
encourage a prostrate habit, with many lateral shoots.
So, ideally some lawns need to be cut weekly during their active growing
period, more often if the owner goes berserk with watering and fertilising,
but generally, mowing every 7 to14 days is a reasonable compromise.
As the grass lapses into winter dormancy, so the interval between cuts
can be extended, but still apply the one third off criteriA.
If the grass is too long at the next cut, and you remove more than a
third, the amount of green foliage that photosynthesises plant food
is severely reduced. During winter with fewer sunlight hours anyway,
the plant is unable to cope, and the turf suffers.
If you cut so low that all the green growth is removed, the lawn has
an overall yellow appearance and is dramatically stressed, finding it
difficult to cope with low overnight ground temperatures. The grass
in its weakened state is also susceptible to attack by various diseases.
If you set the mowing height high to compensate for less than optimal
mowing frequency, then spongy or thatching of the turf is likely, which
will require later scarifying, an additional expense.
How long between mowing also depends on the kind of grass. Different
grasses should be cut at different heights. Lawn care should not be
equated to rotary mowing of a green patch as low and as infrequently
as possible. Together with excessive wear on the mower, this is the
most damaging maintenance program possible.
|
Bent (Agrostis sp) |
15mm |
|
Buffalo (Stenotaphrum sp) |
20-40mm |
|
Clover (Trifolium sp) |
25mm |
|
Couch (Cynodon sp) |
15mm |
|
Kentucky blue (Poa pratensis) |
30-40mm |
|
Kikuyu (Pennisetum sp) |
20mm at least weekly |
|
Rye (Lolium perenne) |
30-40mm |
|
Santa Ana |
20mm |
|
Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) |
50mm |
Q. When I
water my garden the water just runs off. Why ? How do I fix the
problem ?
A.
Q. When is the best time to prune
shrubs ?
A.
Q. My kikuyu lawn is yellow in patches
. Why ?
A.
Q. How can I eradicate onion weed in my
garden ?
A.
Q. When is the best time to spray for
codling moth ?
A.
Q. The leaves of my citrus tree are
yellow .Why ?
A.
Q. I have a large dead spot in my lawn
shaped like a doughnut. What is it ?
A.
Q. My daffodils didn't produce many
flowers this year do you know why ?
A. Daffodils that fail to flower
are usually due to a lack of water the previous season. After flowering,
the bulb needs to develop an adequate nutrient reserve to promote flowering
the following year. This is obtained from the green leafy growth which
needs to be stimulated by Tender Loving Careafter floweringwith sufficient water and fertilising to ensure the bulbs are plump
and juicy to flower in the next season.
Q. When should I spray fruit trees for
leaf curl ?
A.
Q. How do I remove moss from my lawn
?
A. Moss is usually due to three
factors. (1) poor drainage - either the soil is compacted, poorly constructed,
or clay-rich and soggy; and (2) the soil pH is too high. Most turf grasses
require soil pH to be between 5.5 an 6.5, slightly on the acid side
of neutral. (3) the mossy area is heavily shaded.
Iron sulphate gives good control of moss and algae and will lower soil
pH. Moss will quickly return unless poor soil drainage and overwatering
are not remedied. Sow shade tolerant turf grasses such as Poa trivialis
and creeping red fescue. Mow the grass a little higher to increase turf
density and prevent it from thinning out and susceptible to weed and
moss invasion. A common feature of mossy lawns is an accumulation of
thatch which chokes the turf grass. This will need to be raked out or
scarified. Another reason for mossy lawns is underfeeding. Apply a high
nitrogen fertiliser together with iron sulphate.
Q. How do I treat black spot on my rose
bushes ?
A. Black spot is a fungus
that causes circular spots about 12mm across on the leaves that turn
yellow and fall prematurely. If the rose is continually defoliated
it will weaken and die. The problem is acute in humid weather.
|
|
|
 |
Avoid overhead watering.
Control by regular spraying at 8-10 day intervals with mancozeb, triforene,
zineb or copper oxychloride when the weather becomes warm and humid.
Thoroughly drench each plant as fungal spores can survive in the mulch
around the plant. Read the directions on the product label before using
any fungicide.
Fungal diseases occur during high humidity around the bush. This can
be caused by growing smaller annuals underneath rose bushes, by overhead
watering late in the day, or roses grown in shady situations.
Q. When is the
best time to prune roses ?
A. I find the ideal time to prune
roses is when buds halfway up the most vigorous cane begin to swell
at the node, just before it commences to make leafy growth. The newly
emerging bud has a distinct, glossy appearance. Buds near the tip if
the cane will be 5 or 6mm long.
Late July is about right on the Adelaide plains. In cooler districts,
pruning should be a couple of weeks later, but the criteria is bud swell
as the rose emerges from dormancy.
Pruning earlier than this tends to force the shrub into new growth,
which can be damaged by frost, evidenced as blackening of new leaf margins
which are quite flaccid. Early pruning also leaves new growth susceptible
to attack by aphids and mites that persist through warmer spells in
winter. Pruning too late will waste energy the plant has put into developing
new leaves and buds.
Q. When is the best time to prune fruit
trees ?
A.
Q. What is an endophyte?
A. An endophyte is a type of fungus
that has a mutually beneficial association with certain species of grasses.
They derive their food as well as protection from living between the
cells of the turfgrass plant. They pose no harm to and do not produce
any negative side effects to the host plant. Toxins produced by the
fungus which are harmful to surface-feeding insects are released into
the leaves of the turfgrass plant; thereby producing a natural insecticide.
This "insecticide" then makes the host plant a non-appealing source
of food. In many instances, not only are the insects repelled from feeding,
but insect mortality may occur. Insects affected by these natural insecticides
include chinch bugs, sod webworms and bluegrass billbugs. The fungi
which confer insect resistance to our cool season turfgrasses are from
the genera Acremonium.
There are different species of endophytes which are specific to the
various turfgrass species.
|
|
|
|
76 Winston Avenue
Melrose Park
South
Australia 5039
Phone 08 8293
4338
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
